The Magic Of Retinol: How To Get Glass Skin

Retinol is a vitamin A derivative and a precursor for retinoic acid. Retinol is also one of the staples in the anti-aging world. Known for it’s ability to quicken the turnover the skin, retinol is not only able to improve skin texture but can also be seen to thicken epidermis (outer skin layer). So many people are discovering the magic of retinol and are now using it preventatively to slow down the aging process.

What Is The Skin Made Of?

I’m sure it’s engrained into everyone’s mind from 3rd grade anatomy but the skin is the largest organ of the body. It is meant to protect us from harm and external invaders. The skin is made up of three layers called the epidermis, the dermis and hypodermis.

The Epidermis is the outer most layer of skin and it consists of keratinocytes, melanocytes, langerhans’ and merkel cells.

Keratinocytes originate from the stratum basale level (the deepest level of the epidermis, separated by dermis, melanocytes are also present here). Keratinocytes happen to be the main cells of the epidermis, they produce keratin (a protein that helps form the skin, nails and hair).

Melanocytes produce melanin which provides pigment in our skin and helps protect us against UV rays. UVB light exposure stimulates melanin secretion creating tanner looking skin.

Langerhans’ cells are the first line defenders for the skin, protecting body against antigens (foreign invaders).

Merkel cells are oval shaped epidermal cells, also found in stratum basale, that contain keratin filaments and interact with the free nerve endings in the skin serving a sensory role for light touch.

Aging Skin

The skin is constantly battling outside factors that age it such as UV radiation, toxins, pollution and chemicals in the environment.

physical signs of aging include:

Thinning of epidermis and dermis
reduced keratinocytes in epidermis
loss of collagen
impaired vasculature support
poor wound healing

These changes impair the integrity and barrier function of the skin.

How Retinoic Acid Works

Studies find that retinol can improve epidermal thickness significantly. One study found that retinol can increase epidermal thickness by 2 fold. Keratinocyte proliferation occurred by 12 fold post retinol use (analyzed by KI67 immunostaining). There was also a significant increase in dermal stromal cells which release growth factors and promote cell division also. The new epidermal cells are regenerating in the bottom layer as the dead cells on the top layer slough off.

Another study showed similar findings of thickened epidermis and reduced wrinkles after 12 weeks and also acknowledge less erythema (redness) and sensitivity to skin compared to tretinoin use, the stronger derivative.

With 1% retinol, the Varani and colleagues 2000 study showed that within 7 days there was improvement in fibroblasts (cells that increase connective tissue) and collagen production while simultaneously reducing collagenase (which breaks down collagen). Retinol was also seen to reduce matrix metalloproteinase (breaks down our extracellular matrix which is involved in cellular repair and tissue remodeling). It reduced gelatinase (breaks down gelatin). Gelatin plays an important role in improving elasticity of skin and connective tissue.

Retinol is a proven benefit to anti aging/photoaging (sun aging) methods.

Differences Between Retinoids

Retinoids are found in keratinocytes but also have roles in proliferation, vision, reproduction, inflammation, etc. Although retinol tends to be used interchangeably, there are several different vitamin A forms/derivatives marketed in skincare with different degrees of strength so it’s important to choose the right one for you.

Retinol is synonymous with vitamin A. It increases skin cell proliferation, resurfaces the skin, declogs pores and increases collagen production. It eventually has to be converted into retinoic acid to show action. 20 x less potent than tretinoin. A study found, however that retinol can be just as effective in producing collagen and thickening epidermis (histological changes) and create less reactivity such as redness and irritation compared to tretinoin. Retinol can be found in over-the-counter anti-aging products.

Retinoic acid metabolite of vitamin A that is converted in the skin. It is a low molecular lipophilic molecule also found in embryos and adult vertebrae. It mediates the function of vitamin A. When not applied on skin, we get our vitamin A from carotenoids found in plants or retinyl esters found in animal produce. Vitamin A is mainly stored in the liver in the form of retinyl esters. Retinol then binds to proteins called retinol binding proteins and enters the circulatory system so it can target cells that require retinoic acid. Retinoic acid plays a role in vision, memory, epithelial function and differentiation of cells. Retinoic acid is the end product.

Retinaldehyde is a more potent, oxidated alcohol end group metabolite of retinol/ precursor of retinoic acid. Once in the skin, retinaldehyde is converted into retinoic acid which occurs when keratinocytes are at a pertinent stage of differentiation so the delivery is more controlled and the results come with less adverse reactions. Increases epidermal thickness, keratin 14 expression (helps with anchoring epidermis with the lower levels of the skin). In studies, histological changes like resurfacing of the skin, increased epidermis and reduced wrinkles were observed.

Tretinoin or Retin-A, is pure form of retinoic acid, meaning no conversion is necessary. Used to treat acne, melasma, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, etc. Use 1-3x per week when first starting to get use to product then add days as the skin adjusts to product. Flaking and peeling of the skin are common findings. Irritation may occur, if it does you can scale back on how often you’re using the product. Studies found that tretinoin blocks collagenase (breaks down collagen) and gelatinase (breaks down gelatin). They also objectively found “rosier glow” to skin that was not seen in control group, significant wrinkle reduction, improved skin texture, reduction of hyperpigmentation and collagen production in several studies which was visible in long and short term. Findings also showed that 0.025% and 1% tretinoin used over 48 week double blind study both showed significant similar improvement in histological improvement of photo aging. However, the 1% created more adverse reactions compared to the lower dose so it’s recommended to use 0.025% if individuals have sensitive skin as results are similar.

What’s Right For You

Your age, skin sensitivity, level of sun damage, wrinkled or uneven textured skin all play a role in deciding the best retinoid for you. Someone who has used 0.5% tretinoin for years may upgrade to 1% if they have fully tolerated the 0.05% or someone with severe acne scarring who has tried everything and is desperate for quicker results may be prescribed a stronger tretinoin percentage. Tretinoin is strong and can cause sensitivity so, as shown in the studies mentioned, it’s important to be mindful when using these products. More is not always better. As mentioned in a few studies, similar histological results can be seen with a lower dose retinoid.

Tips:

Start with lower dosage if being prescribed tretinoin and never having used retinoids before. Once you’ve adapted you can always incraese.
Use retinoids at night as they will eventually cause visible or microscipic flaking/shedding of skin so you want to make sure you’re not using a retinoid and then immediately going in the sun. You WILL burn your skin.
Use a moisturizer after the retinol (wait a few minutes for absorption) or find a time release retinol that provides moisture. Skinbetter has a 13 award winning time release retinol that is groundbreaking and doesn’t leave your skin dry and thirsty https://store.skinbetter.com/alpharet-overnight-cream-30-ml?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_sSciJS9gQMVAg-tBh36sw6vEAQYBCABEgJdtfD_BwE
Always wear SPF in the morning and additionally vitamin C/E as these antioxidants have been seen to protect against UVB and free radical damage.
Start with using retinols 3-4 times a week and tretinoin 2-3 times depending on severity of condition. Get use to the serum before increasing use.

Speak with specialist to get detailed directions based on your skin type

Also Read: The Most Impactful Skincare for My Skin